High Compatibility Of Ferulic Acid With Other Components

What is ferulic acid?

A while ago, a scientific article on "Chemical Peel" by China's State Drug Administration caused great concern in the industry, and the sensitivity of the topic of "acid" in the industry was rising. The word "Chemical Peel" was even blacklisted by a short video platform.

In addition to the hydroxy acids used in cosmetics, there are tranexamic acid and tragic acid for whitening, ellagic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and ferulic acid for anti-oxidation. These ingredients do not have "Chemical Peel" effects but are widely used in cosmetics because of their excellent efficacy.

Among the many acid ingredients, ferulic acid can be said to be a special one, which was first widely known in the industry for its patented combination of vitamin C + vitamin E + ferulic acid. In subsequent years of research, ferulic acid as a single ingredient has also shown more comprehensive efficacy and has received the attention of many major brands.

How was ferulic acid benefits discovered?

It is recorded that in 1866, scientists Barth and Hlasiwetz extracted an organic acid from a plant resin called ferulic acid, which was named as ferulic acid.

The chemical name of ferulic acid is 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenylacrylic acid, and its structure is a cinnamic acid derivative, which is essentially a plant phenolic acid. In daily life, it is found in foods such as pasta, cereals, popcorn, and even Chinese herbs such as angelica, chuanxiong, and asclepias also contain ferulic acid.

Around 1970, Japanese researchers discovered that ferulic acid has antioxidant properties, and it has since been used in many fields such as pharmaceuticals, foods, health care, and cosmetics.

The role of ferulic acid in cosmetics

1. Initially, in the cosmetic industry, ferulic acid was used as a stabilizer for some antioxidant ingredients such as vitamin C and vitamin E. However, studies have shown that it not only compliments formulations but also has its own antioxidant properties to support intracellular antioxidant defense systems. However, studies have shown that it not only compliments formulations, but also has antioxidant properties of its own, providing support to the intracellular antioxidant defense system.

2. In subsequent studies, the antioxidant mechanism of ferulic acid was found to be more complex. In a review published by Zduńska K et al. in 2018 in the journal Dermatopharmacology, it was mentioned that ferulic acid can chelate protonated metal ions (e.g. Cu(II) or Fe(II)) and inhibit free radical-related enzyme activity, in addition to inhibiting reactive oxygen species, scavenging free radicals, and inhibiting lipid peroxidation.

3. Ferulic acid in cosmetics can also be used as a whitening and skin photoprotective agent. Speaking of whitening, there is a natural whitening ingredient, tetrahydrocurcumin, which has a very similar structure to ferulic acid; the combination of two ferulic acids is tetrahydrocurcumin, and both inhibit tyrosinase.

In 2009, in a study published in the Journal of Chinese Aesthetic Medicine, Shuying Liu and Dan Luo from the Department of Dermatology and Venereology of the First Affiliated Hospital of Nanjing Medical University found that ferulic acid has a protective effect against UV-induced skin cell damage and enhances the UV defense mechanism of cells. Therefore, ferulic acid is considered to be able to be used as a natural sunscreen.

In addition, the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of ferulic acid have been demonstrated in several studies. Overall, it is able to exert whitening and sunscreen effects as a single antioxidant active ingredient, and the related mechanism of action has been more clearly studied. At the same time, the ingredient has not yet shown any major side effects in cosmetic applications.

High compatibility of ferulic acid in skincare with other components

Although individual ferulic acid has excellent antioxidant activity, it has some inevitable problems, such as stability. Ferulic acid is reactive, easily oxidized, and subject to degradation by pH and temperature. Therefore, in order to enhance the activity of the ingredients and the stability of the formulation, ferulic acid is often used in combination with other ingredients, and certain combinations of compounded ingredients have even become classics.

1. Stable formulations: Vitamin ce ferulic acid

Among the many combinations of ferulic acid, "CEF" is the most famous, and in 2005, Dr. Sheldon R. Pinnell (Professor Pinnell) and others from Duke University Medical Center published an article in the Journal of Dermatological Research entitled "Ferulic Acid Stabilizes Vitamin C and E Solutions".  In their experiments, they found that ferulic acid improved the chemical stability of vitamins (C+E) and that topical application of a solution of 0.5% ferulic acid, 15% vitamin C and 1% vitamin E to the skin increased skin photoprotection by 4-8 times when exposed to sunlight.

One of the authors of this paper, Professor Piniel, is the founder of the American efficacious skincare brand "SkinCeuticals". In the same year, the CEF serum was launched and became a very classic anti-aging serum that is still a best-seller today.

The efficacy of "CEF" as a solid antioxidant combination is also enhanced by the combination of all three. In another paper published by SkinCeuticals, the "CEF" combination was shown to provide more UV protection than Idebenone and Coenzyme Q10.

Today, the "CEF" combination is used in many other brands besides Seuricor. For example, Perricone MD, another efficacious skincare brand established by dermatologist Nicholas Perricone, M.D., has in-depth research in antioxidants. The brand launched a vitamin C + ferulic acid brightening serum, which uses a total concentration of about 20% vitamin C as well as vitamin C ester derivatives, and adds ferulic acid and vitamin E derivatives.

In addition, similar products have been developed by efficacious skincare brands such as Paula's Choice, Timeless, and Cosmetic Skin Solution.

In the case of Seuricor's Perfect White Repair Day Serum, a combination of Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid + Rootermin is used. Research at Seuricor has found that not only is Rootermin an effective antioxidant, but it also increases the stability of Vitamin C and Ferulic Acid in the formula, as well as its photoprotective effect on the skin.

2. Booster combination of ferulic acid

• Ferulic acid and Multiple acids

In 2007, L'Oréal researchers published an article in the journal Aesthetic Dermatology titled "Hydroxy acids in the skin: properties of C8-lipo hydroxy acids", in which they described L'Oréal's patented ingredient C8-lipoic acid (C8-LHA) and mentioned that adding to ferulic acid "stratum corneum separators" (such as lipohydroxycarbons) can enhance its efficacy.

However, some dermatologists believe that "exfoliating acid" type of ingredients can alter the skin pH and thus affect the antioxidant efficacy of ferulic acid. Therefore, superimposing acids on the skin is more demanding in terms of product formulation and technology.

This combination is used in L'Oreal's new "White Bottle" launched this year. The product is designed with a double tube, the inner tube contains 7.6ml of 0.5% ferulic acid and the outer tube is 30ml of whitening ingredient 377, while niacinamide is added, as well as the combination of "octanoyl salicylic acid LHA + papain + caffeine" to accelerate skin metabolism.

• Ferulic acid and Resveratrol

Ferulic acid and resveratrol are both considered to be truly effective antioxidants, and both can be used for skin whitening. This combination is also a typical combination of synergistic whitening and is used in many products that focus on antioxidant and whitening effects. The Ordinary, a skincare brand known as the "ingredient bucket", has launched a 3% resveratrol + 3% ferulic acid, which uses propylene glycol solvent instead of water, and is a highly concentrated antioxidant essence.

• Ferulic Acid and Retinol

The combination of ferulic acid and retinol enhances the anti-aging effect, while ferulic acid can properly reduce the stimulating effect of retinol, neutralize the free radicals produced by retinol and reduce sun damage.

Dr. Dennis Gross, an American efficacious skincare brand that specializes in "cocktail formulas," has launched its Retinol + Ferulic Acid line, which focuses on anti-wrinkle and spot reduction. The product is based on the patented Phyto-Retinol Blend, a botanical retinol blend consisting of two retinoids (trans-retinol and encapsulated retinol), psoralenol, rhodopsin and ferulic acid, which are synergistic and more gentle.tamin C and ferulic acid in the formula, as well as its photoprotective effect on the skin.

3. Upgrades in product form and packaging

There are other ways to maintain the activity of ferulic acid ingredients, such as adjustments and changes in the product form.

In the L'Oréal Hydration Filling Freeze-Dried Radiance Ampoule Serum Kit, ferulic acid is made into freeze-dried pressed tablets, and this completely water-free form is more conducive to maintaining the activity of the ingredient. The freeze-dried ferulic acid works together with hyaluronic acid and vitamin C derivatives in the ampoule to brighten the complexion and fight wrinkles.

L'Oréal also makes full use of ferulic acid in the form of a separate bottle. In addition to the above-mentioned "White Bottle", Lancôme's Skin Base Repair & Soothing Serum has a separate ferulic acid solution sealed in a blue dropper to maintain its activity. In this product, ferulic acid is synergized with fermented yeast cytosol, caffeine and Centella Asiatica extract to make it more suitable for sensitive skin.

In addition, some ferulic acid derivatives, such as glutamate (ferulic acid ester) and ethyl ferulic acid, can be used in cosmetics more easily in comparison. 2014, a review published by Yanhong Liu from Beijing University of Technology and Business mentioned that in existing studies, ferulic acid ester derivatives not only continue the biological activity of ferulic acid, but also have more stable physical and chemical properties, and transdermal absorption and lipid solubility are enhanced.

As one of the main ingredients, ferulic acid also appears in domestic products.

Although ferulic acid is not as famous as antioxidants like vitamin C and vitamin E in ingredient party communication, there are now many domestic products that use and promote it as a main ingredient.

For example, the daytime freshness sub throws original solution launched by BIOHYALUX, the main focus of fullerene and ferulic acid to play the role of antioxidants, but also contains niacinamide, parsley extract, hyaluronic acid and other whitening and moisturizing ingredients. In the form of the product is used in the second throw, easier to maintain the activity of the active ingredient.

The new national brand Peterson's Lab's research in the launch of a series of niacinamide serum, the main 5% niacinamide + 0.5% ferulic acid + 1% muscle peptide combination, while containing 0.5% of the 377 whitening ingredients, the product to anti and antioxidant-based. The experimental results of Bison's Research said that the user's skin tone improved after about 20 days of using the product.

Another new domestic skincare brand, Chunilaixin, uses "CEF" in its products, introducing a vitamin C extract for anti-oxidation and skin brightening, which contains 10% L-vitamin C, 0.5% ferulic acid and 0.5% vitamin E. At the same time, resveratrol + glucosylated rutin is added to restore the skin's glycation reaction and reduce collagen damage. It also contains soothing and moisturizing ingredients such as Bioglycolloid-2 and Centella asiatica extract to neutralize irritation.

In addition, the domestic efficacious skincare brand Biophyto-genesis also uses ferulic acid as an ingredient in many of its products, such as Baeksei Vitamin CE Complex Repair Essence, which also uses the "CEF" combination; Biophyto-genesis Resveratrol Serum chooses the combination of resveratrol and ferulic acid to focus on the whitening effect.

To sum up, we can see that in cosmetic applications, ferulic acid can complement other antioxidants and also fight free radicals and photodamage by itself, and its wide application reflects the science of cosmetic compounding.

Initially, SkinCeuticals created the classic antioxidant combination that is still followed by many products today. In later years, these brands created more "cocktail combinations" of ferulic acid. However, due to the active nature of ferulic acid, it is a question of how to maintain its activity and stability in use.