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Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2022-11-09 Origin: Site
Ceramide is a sphingosine lipid composed of sphingosine long-chain bases and fatty acids. It is a type of phospholipid with ceramide as the skeleton, mainly including ceramide phosphocholine and ceramide phosphoethanolamine. Phospholipids are the main components of cell membranes. 40% to 50% of sebum in the stratum corneum is composed of ceramides, and ceramides are The main part of the intercellular matrix, which plays an important role in maintaining the moisture balance of the stratum corneum.
Ceramides exist in all eukaryotic cells and play an important role in regulating cell differentiation, proliferation, apoptosis, aging and other life activities. As the main component of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, it not only acts as a second messenger molecule in the sphingomyelin pathway, but also plays an important role in the formation of the epidermal stratum corneum, and has the functions of maintaining skin barrier, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening and disease treatment and so on.
Grubauer et al. reported using acetone and other organic solvents to treat the skin of male hairless mice aged 1 to 3 months to study the relationship between skin barrier function and skin lipids. The results showed that with the decrease of skin lipid content, skin barrier function decreased.
Holleran et al. studied the relationship between epidermal barrier function and sphingolipid synthesis by infiltrating [3H]H20, and found that when the skin of hairless mice was treated with acetone to cause skin barrier dysfunction, the synthesis of sphingolipids increased, After 5-7 hours of acetone treatment, the synthesis of sphingolipids reached 170%; after 24 hours, the skin barrier function returned to normal, and the synthesis of sphingolipids also returned to normal. It can be seen that ceramides play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function.
Ceramide and cell surface proteins play a role in bonding cells through ester bonds, and this mutual connection is called "lipid-cell-protein" wrapping. Smith et al. have reported that the adhesion between keratinocytes can be judged by measuring the content of ceramide in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The decrease of the content of ceramide in the stratum corneum of the epidermis can reduce the adhesion between keratinocytes, resulting in dry skin, desquamation, and appearance of keratinocytes. scaly.
Pawlmgs et al. studied the mechanism of dry skin desquamation and found that the main reason for skin dryness is the reduction of ceramide content in the epidermis stratum corneum, and the level of ceramide content is directly related to the degree of skin dryness. The use of ceramides can significantly enhance the adhesion between keratinocytes, improve skin dryness and reduce skin desquamation.
The moisture content of the skin accounts for about 18% to 20% of the body weight. The moisture and elasticity of the skin are closely related to the moisture contained in the epidermis. Excessive loss of skin moisture can lead to dryness and even chapped skin. Imokawa et al. used organic solvent treatment to remove stratum corneum lipids and found that the skin continued (>4 days) chapped, scaly, and the skin conductivity decreased significantly.
The lipid fractions extracted from the stratum corneum of the epidermis were subjected to local skin tests under the same conditions to explore which lipid fractions can contribute to the recovery of skin moisture. It was found that the topical application of ceramides resulted in a very significant increase in skin conductivity, followed by cholesterol, and no significant effect of free fatty acids and cholesterol esters.
Ceramides have a strong ability to associate with water molecules and maintain skin moisture by forming a network structure in the stratum corneum. Therefore, it has the effect of maintaining skin moisture.
During skin aging, lipid synthesis decreases and the content of ceramides in the stratum corneum decreases. The characteristics of skin aging are:
(1) dryness, scaling, roughness, and loss of luster of the skin;
(2) thinning of the stratum corneum, increased wrinkles, and decreased elasticity.
The use of ceramide can increase the content of ceramide in the epidermis stratum corneum, which can improve skin dryness, desquamation, roughness and other conditions; at the same time, ceramide can increase the thickness of the epidermis stratum corneum, improve the skin's water-holding capacity, reduce wrinkles, enhance skin elasticity, and delay Skin aging.
Ceramides exist in the cell membranes of animal and plant tissues, and their molecules expose monosaccharide or oligosaccharide residues to the extracellular space and participate in the reaction with the glycolipid head groups of other cells, antibodies, bacterial toxins, and viral envelope proteins. Therefore, ceramides play a very important role in cell adhesion, regulation of cellular immunity, determination of blood group and as tumor antigen. The direct involvement of sphingolipids (GSLs) in cell recognition is through GSL-GSL interaction and GSL-protein lectin interaction.
Sphingolipids (such as ganglioside GM) have the function of regulating integrin receptors. In transmembrane signaling, some special gangliosides directly regulate receptor, tyrosine kinase and protein kinase C (PKC) activity. Some sphingolipids greatly promote receptor kinase activity, resulting in enhanced MAP kinase activity. Ceramides function as membrane antigens for some tumors and also as receptors for viruses, bacteria and their toxins. They are related cell-cell, cell-microbe, and cell-adhesion protein interaction regulators.
Using ceramide-containing revitalizing essence cosmetics can strengthen the skin's anti-aging function, keep the skin elastic, smooth and delicate, and reduce the formation of facial wrinkles.
Ceramide plays an important messenger role in the biological effects induced by a variety of cytokines, vitamin D3, Fas and CD28 ligands, and its role in mediating apoptosis has attracted attention; at the same time, ceramide is also involved in various physiological and biological effects such as cell differentiation. pathological process. Ceramide induces apoptosis in epidermal keratinocyte culture. Ceramide is the decomposition product of sphingomyelin in the biological membrane bilayer, and it is recognized as the second messenger; and in the process of cell growth, proliferation, differentiation, apoptosis and injury, ceramide plays an extensive and important role.
Ceramide is the latest generation of moisturizing agent developed in recent years. It is a water-soluble lipid substance. It has a similar structure to the material that constitutes the stratum corneum of the skin. It can quickly penetrate into the skin and combine with the water in the stratum corneum to form a A mesh structure that locks in moisture.
There are also many research reports that the use of topical cream products containing ceramides can achieve the purpose of preventing allergic skin diseases and inhibiting the effect of melanin and brown spots.
With increasing age and entering old age, the ceramides in human skin will gradually decrease, and the appearance of abnormal skin symptoms such as dry skin and rough skin type is also caused by the decrease in the amount of ceramides. Therefore, to prevent such skin abnormalities, supplementing ceramides is an ideal solution.
Many health foods have been developed using some physiological functions of ceramide, such as inhibiting blood pressure rise, activating immunity, blocking lipase activity, and inhibiting cancer cell proliferation. Plant-based ceramide products were also officially commercialized and introduced to the market in 1998. So far, its products are mainly functional drinks, tablets and other nutritional supplements and health food.
Naturally extracted ceramides are derived from animals and plants. Animals are derived from the brains of animals at risk of disease, so they should not be used in cosmetics. The plant extraction method is limited by the plant growth cycle and season, and the yield is low.
The main chemical synthesis is pseudoceramide, which is similar in structure and function to ceramide, and can be used in cosmetics. A variety of pseudoceramides have been successfully synthesized.
Microbial fermentation is a commonly used method for preparing ceramide in recent years, that is, using Pichiaciferrii or Saccharomyces cerevisiae to obtain tetraacetyl phytosphingosine (TAPS) by fermentation under a certain environment, and then remove it. Acetylation obtains phytosphingosine, and fatty acids are added to synthesize ceramides and other substances.
